Sailboat cruise in Dalmatia, part 5

The next day we continue to wander among the islets. We leave early because we expect a longer leg. Later the mistral wind rises and we sail with the wind in the stern. When the lunch time arrives, we look for a suitable place for anchoring. We decide for a bay on the west side of the islet Ravni Žakan.

 Among a few sailboats there, one is particularly elegant. It must have 20 meters. We dream a little to navigate with something like this. We catch a buoy in front of a restaurant. The staff from the restaurant comes to us. We tell them we'll just dine on board and go on so we are not charged for the mooring. On the other side of the island we notice several masts of sailboats as there is another restaurant. At this time of year, for who can afford it, you can really eat well here in one of the many restaurants and taverns (konoba). We go on as the wind is rising. We pass between the Kornati and the Mala Smokvica island.

 Now we are heading to the north with strong head wind towards the island Žut. We tighten our sails, we tilt... we follow the speedometer ... on several occasions we achieve our own speed record. Racers might be laughing about our speed, but to us, modest tourists, that is a sufficient reason for joy and excitement.

At one point, Jordi suddenly turns from the course. He noticed that the number on the depth gauge fell drastically. Depth is quickly normalized, we look at the map, we consult a book, we check the cell phone map ... nothing, there is no sign of a shallow region. Could it be our instrument error? We continue to move to head. We notice a strange noise from the cabin. It's coming from downstairs. Are there some vibrations caused by the flow of water? After a few unpleasant moments we find the source: as the boat tilts with an almost empty water tank, the water pump draws air. We turn off the pump and relax a little, well that's nothing serious. The wind decreases, but we do not regret it because we are a bit tired of the sun and the excitement. We are looking in the map where we could spend the next night. We choose the spacious Hiljača bay, which should be protected from almost all winds according to our the navigation book and offer a safe anchoring base. Although it's early, the bay is quite crowded. We throw anchor at a safe distance from other vessels. We're checking the anchor. Not very well, the bottom is rocky on this part, mostly smooth except that there and there is some big stone, which is perfect for holding anchors. We observe the anchors of other vessels. If there's something going to blow tonight there will be panic, the anchors just lie on a flat stone surface. Fortunately, the forecast for the night says no wind. But we are lazy to search a better bay. We do not feel smarter then all other skippers. After bathing, as the dark falls, we prepare dinner. As every night we talk about the day, we plan a for tomorrow, we joke, we have fun, we look at the stars ...Then we hear some kind of sound from the cabin ... like a kind of easy ticketing ... Was not there enough excitement for today? We're lifting the floorboard, we check the piping on the engine, looking under the pillow, everywhere! Everything looks okay but we hear it! Is this some kind of osmosis, thermal dilation or what? We throw different theories, but we're not having fun at all. We drop the dinghy to look at the outside of the hull. At the bottom of the inflatable the same ticketing. Under the light of the flashlight in the sea there is life: plankton, insects, fireworks and similar.. I take the can and grab the water under the light. I have it! I caught the "monster"! I throw it on the deck and it seems we've discovered the sound source. Some kind of worm swims around the cane at a high speed and hits the walls. In the sea there are surely thousands of them. Now that the mystery is solved, fear leaves the place to laughter. We laugh at various theories, and we conclude that the ship will not melt overnight, and probably the worms will not eat it either!

Sailboat cruise in Dalmatia, part 4

After lunch we head towards the Kornati archipelago. The impressive lighthouse welcomes us from the isle of Vela Sestrica and we leave the civilization we know behind our stern. If there was a crowd in Telašćica, here are just a couple of sailing boats on the horizon.

During our easy navigation to the south, we observe the interesting forms of islets. We are looking at the map and discuss which one is which. It's hard to say if they're more interesting on the map, with their bird-eye shapes, or in place. Some show a layered structure, some resembling monsters and some remind facial expressions. They are mostly naked, without vegetation with rocks as cut to the southern side.

It reigns a relaxed peace that is only from time to time interrupted by a yacht or tourist boat. At the end of the day, we choose the place to spend the night. We select the Vrulje bay. There are already plenty of boats there, but we gained some experience so we are not intimidated.. So we drop anchor in front of the National park administration building. We are told that there's no problem and we can stay there. We are looking at other ships around us: several sailboats, a few motorboats, a fleet of charter sailboats that are massively tied to one buoy and between them. This does not seem a school example of a safe mooring, but weather is calm so it should not be a problem. The most interesting is a small green steel sailboat, quite narrow and square, probably a do-it-your-self construction. The French flag and wind generator create a picture of a world traveler who must have seen many seas. It is considered that France is the cradle of ocean adventurers, single handed sailors. Skipper's style is in line with the boat: a few months beard. We have not noticed a pipe, but we are sure he has it somewhere aboard.

The place of Vrulje is very interesting, another oasis of civilization surrounded by sea-world. The superscription Market calls us from the roof of one of the houses. There are no big buildings, some are upgraded, but all have roots in traditional, modest, characteristic local buildings from Kornati. The small shore and the few alleys are mostly non concreted. There is a gurgle coming from the terraces of a couple of restaurants that at least at this time of year contribute to the above-average liveliness. We decide to walk and buy some stuff in the Market, more to feel the experience than for real need. Indeed, in the era of various glittering shopping centers and supermarkets, the market in Vrulje is something completely different. In front of the house, a mother and daughter sell local products. We talk to them. They talk us about tourists, about Kornati islands and their history. We climb the hill above Vrulje. Although it is already dusk, we do some beautiful pictures of the landscape. The Archipelago, a picturesque village in the bay below us, a sailboat, the colors of the dusk, which can not be captured in the photograph. With the help of the moonlight and a head lamp, we return to the place by a rocky path.