10.2.19

Sailboat cruise in Dalmatia, part 4


After lunch we head towards the Kornati archipelago. The impressive lighthouse welcomes us from the isle of Vela Sestrica and we leave the civilization we know behind our stern. If there was a crowd in Telašćica, here are just a couple of sailing boats on the horizon.




During our easy navigation to the south, we observe the interesting forms of islets. We are looking at the map and discuss which one is which. It's hard to say if they're more interesting on the map, with their bird-eye shapes, or in place. Some show a layered structure, some resembling monsters and some remind facial expressions. They are mostly naked, without vegetation with rocks as cut to the southern side.

It reigns a relaxed peace that is only from time to time interrupted by a yacht or tourist boat. At the end of the day, we choose the place to spend the night. We select the Vrulje bay. There are already plenty of boats there, but we gained some experience so we are not intimidated.. So we drop anchor in front of the National park administration building. We are told that there's no problem and we can stay there. We are looking at other ships around us: several sailboats, a few motorboats, a fleet of charter sailboats that are massively tied to one buoy and between them. This does not seem a school example of a safe mooring, but weather is calm so it should not be a problem. The most interesting is a small green steel sailboat, quite narrow and square, probably a do-it-your-self construction. The French flag and wind generator create a picture of a world traveler who must have seen many seas. It is considered that France is the cradle of ocean adventurers, single handed sailors. Skipper's style is in line with the boat: a few months beard. We have not noticed a pipe, but we are sure he has it somewhere aboard.


The place of Vrulje is very interesting, another oasis of civilization surrounded by sea-world. The superscription Market calls us from the roof of one of the houses. There are no big buildings, some are upgraded, but all have roots in traditional, modest, characteristic local buildings from Kornati. The small shore and the few alleys are mostly non concreted. There is a gurgle coming from the terraces of a couple of restaurants that at least at this time of year contribute to the above-average liveliness. We decide to walk and buy some stuff in the Market, more to feel the experience than for real need. Indeed, in the era of various glittering shopping centers and supermarkets, the market in Vrulje is something completely different. In front of the house, a mother and daughter sell local products. We talk to them. They talk us about tourists, about Kornati islands and their history. We climb the hill above Vrulje. Although it is already dusk, we do some beautiful pictures of the landscape. The Archipelago, a picturesque village in the bay below us, a sailboat, the colors of the dusk, which can not be captured in the photograph. With the help of the moonlight and a head lamp, we return to the place by a rocky path.



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